Looking up at Darren on the chimney pitch
Simon leads out onto the exposed crux
North Face Route is a classic rock climb on the Buachaille Etive Mor in Glen Coe. I climbed it the day after a friends wedding down in Glasgow. Simon and I decided to drive up to Glen Coe despite the rain in the central belt. It was a good decision as the sun was shining. We were late starting and it was gone mid-day by the time we got going from the road.
The base of the route is not obvious for those who are not familiar with climbs on the Buchaille. The initial pitches follow ribs then traverse right to climb the left most of two chimneys.
The chimney pitch is very entertaining with good protection. Following is the crux pitch. This is a traverse out left and is very exposed. Protection on the crux is not plentiful. After the leftward traverse the climb ascends up a broad arete but the protection is still sparse.
The climb is a good length mountain route but it finishes far beneath the summit, half way up Curved Ridge.
